South America used to be a backpacker’s rite of passage, an adventure junkie’s paradise, or a cheap place to hide out and learn Spanish. No longer: Now the continent’s top hotels and touring outfits—many founded by those expat backpackers who grew smitten and decided to stay—rival those anywhere in the world. And cities that not long ago were no-man’s-lands, like Bogota, are coming into their own.
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